Thread starter jason walker Start date Jan 26, Check the bolts that hold it to the flex plate. Some converters make noise when not locked. Never heard that on a tr though Posted from the TurboBuick. Com mobile app. Last edited: Jan 26, Multi disc Vigilante converter.
Transmission rattle under load
I think the guy called it a stallion brand converter made like a cadillac converter only rattles at idle do not know if so under load. TexasT Texas, Where are you from. Who is "the guy"? What is a "cadillac Converter"? Is it a multi disc Lock up piece? Those do rattle but they last better if you like to lock it up during the run. Pronto Chaos is a ladder. Here's a clue; pink converter I dont like to think I am old, but my kids certainly tell me I am.
I think the guy called it a stallion brand converter. Dusty Bradford Well-Known Member. I had a Pat's that caused a severe knock issue at launch for two years. I replaced or tightened everything I could. Installed the turbo, new chip, and the Convertor Still have the Convertor and need to send it back to Pat to get an answer.
Toss your Convertor and get one from Dusty.Datatype mql4
If no change, main bearings more likely. Like the guy above said, low oil pressure especially cold is a sign of excessive main bearing clearance. Either way Bad bearings will show low oil pressure, whether camrod or main.
HnstrayDec 7, This is in a SBC oil pressure is good. When car has run for a long period you hear anoise when you rev the motor standing still. When you pull off and it's going though the gears you hear this sound if you let up at 2, rpm it goes away. Kinda like a girlfriend I had once. Seemed to be going bad and knocked a little untill she was warmed up, but then yikes!
Sorry smart ass in every crowd. Good luck with your delima.Bdo 1v1 tier list
HnstrayDec 8, George MillerDec 8, Had a bad fuel pump make that kind of noise start with the easiest things to check first Newer people to the hobby think cars routinely went k plus between rebuilds.A metal rattling sound when I accelerate from a slow speed or from a complete stop. The rattling sound is temporary and goes away when I reach 30 - 40 mph. Anymore acceleration to speeds beyond that do not make this sound. I also feels like something is holding down the acceleration of the vehicle during the time I hear that rattling sound.
It comes from the front side near to the tires. My first inclination would be to say, "torque converter". That is easy to rule in or out as you might be able to get a "free" diagnosis from a transmission shop. The reason for my first inclination is you mention a degradation in acceleration.
If the torque converter has an internal fault you could experience poor acceleration along with noise. Whether it is the torque converter or another cause front wheel drive, or engine related for instanceYourMechanic could give you a definitive diagnosis of the rattling soundafter an inspection, and indicate your repair options.
Good luck with this.
Q: A tin metal like rattling sound when I accelerate from a low speed. My car has miles. My car has an automatic transmission. Kevin Gainer Automotive Mechanic. Thank Kevin. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that. Why wasn't this information helpful? Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details.
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Under load it goes away. Any ideas? That no load slight knock could possibly be a piston wrist pin problem, however I could be wrong. Blue OneMay 10, My 51 chevy did the same thing, I figured it was a wrist pin and started putting together another for it.
Just bang, crunch and smoke Nailhead JasonMay 10, Yeah man, mine ran awesome, never missed a beat, never smoked, and really ran like a sewing machine. I drove it that way for about a month, daily back and forth to work. But stick with a mild build and stock parts its not to bad.
They do have floating wrist pins with a keeper holding the pin in the piston if one has come out that slight know may be the pin hitting the cylinder wall, or it could have a cracked piston, either way it's going to tear some stuff up when it fails, good luck to you.
I have had several FE's that had an annoying rattle like that. Most kept running forever. A cousin rebuilt his twice and never got rid of it! R PopeMay 10, Your car can vibrate, shake, and create various types of noises for different reasons.
If it particularly happens when you accelerate the engine, you can pin down the problems on common failures of several components.
Q: A tin metal like rattling sound when I accelerate from a low speed.
Knowing about them will help you with quick diagnosis and finding the correct fix before it gets worse. A bad torque converter could be the origin of rattling sound when accelerating at low speed. If this happens, you should take the vehicle to a repair shop as soon as possible. The motor mount on the passenger side could be another obvious culprit. A ruptured mount will leak fluid everywhere. So, if you see dark lines of dripping oil underneath or on the frame next to the side mount, take it to a mechanic.
You will need to have it diagnosed by a professional in that case. These components act as a thermo-reflective barrier between the exhaust system and other parts including gas tank, fuel lines, and the cabin of a car.
When they are loose or broken, they fail to completely block the heat transfer to these key areas. As a result, you will hear frightening rattles at higher speeds. You have to inspect the exhaust system to find out if heat shields are causing rattling noise in car when accelerating. However, do it only when the engine is off for several hours.
The exhaust pipe and some other parts remain hot even after hours of switching the engine off. The speed of these pulleys escalates with the engine speed. If they are slightly bent or loose, the metal-on-metal contact will create terrifying rattling sound when accelerating.
Open the hood and inspect the V-belts when the engine is off and running. If a pulley is bad, the belt will show damage in the form of frayed sides.Freightliner expansion valve location
The rattling noise appears when you start speeding up from 0 to maybe 30 or 40 mph and then disappear after car speed surpasses 40 mph. In another circumstance, when your automobile is running at low speed the noise keeping coming out of car engine. Moreover, you have the feeling that your car is holding back by something indefinable. What have you done in that situation? The culprit of rattling sound when accelerating mainly derives from car engine.
Try to follow these instructions above and you will find your problem. Tsukasa Azuma is an awesome car blogger of Car From Japan. He owns a car repair shop at downtown Osaka, and he put all that experience to good use in his sharing posts. Login with Google. Likes Followers Followers. Import used cars directly from Japan. Maintenance Tips.Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media. Russia- Land-Cruiser. Calendar New events. Log in Register.
Main bearings, when they go bad
Transmission rattle under load. Thread starter 1phrogguy Start date Oct 2, Well let me start off by telling you that this has been going on for quite a while, over a year anyway. No other noises or vibrations are present. No driveline slop at all and the tranny shifts thru all gears smoothly. It is usually louder at lower rpm's with the throttle down. The higher the rpm's are the more thottle it takes to make the noise.
There is no hesitation or anything else, just the rattle sound, I think it is more annoying than anything else. It happens in 2wd and 4wd. I have changed both the tranny and transfer fluid and both were very clean. Should I be worried about something?Forums New posts Search forums.
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The noise only happens at idle speed, as soon as you touch the accelerator it goes away completely. All temps, oil pressure, power, smoke, etc stayed normal No vibrations when it's rattling either, just the sound.
When I got home I let the truck idle and crawled underneath. It sounds bad, not like rod knock bad, but worse than a loose piece of heat shield or something would. Plenty of clearence around the exhaust, it's not the heat shield above the starter rattling, etc. It has made this rattly noise once or twice in the past, and only lasted for a few minutes.
Everything "looks" perfectly fine. No oil leaks, no loose parts, crank pulley spins nice and true, runs great, shifts great, etc. I went out this morning and started the truck, the noise was gone again. Dropped it in drive, reverse, park, revved it up, back into gear, etc and the noise still didn't come back.
For those of you that have heard one. If you have ever listened to a big cam or small cam cummins idle and heard that rattly sound from the front of the engine?
Thats basically what my suburban is sounding like.Cub cadet kawasaki oil change
I plan on pulling the inspection cover this evening after work to check torque converter bolts.
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